| The ancient city
of Patan is situated on the southern bank
of the Bagmati River about five kilometers southeast of Kathmandu.
It is often referred to as Lalitpur, the 'City of Beauty'.
Kathmandu has slipped irrevocably into the hustle and bustle
of modern living, but in Patan, time seems to have stood still.
This city still clings to its old ways.
Most of
Patan's population consists of Newars. Its metalworkers in
particular are renowned for the ease with which they sculpt
images of gilded bronze.
Legend
claims that Patan is the oldest of the Three Kingdoms. The
Buddhist emperor Ashoka supposedly visited the city in the
2nd century B.C. Although this is doubtful, the Ashoka
stupas set at cardinal points of the old town are undoubtedly
ancient.
Patan
rose to prominence while Kathmandu was still only a collection
of villages. This is where Indian, Chinese and Tibetan scholars
and monks converged to exchange views. Medieval Patan was
a large and wealthy kingdom. The Malla kings brought Patan
to its greatest glory when they annexed it to Kathmandu in
the late 16th century, and most of its present monuments and
temples date to the 17th century. Following the Gorkha conquest
of Kathmandu, Patan was largely forgotten. It became a quiet
backwater to the detriment of the economy but to the advantage
of present-day visitors who will find a relatively intact
traditional society here that is no longer as apparent in
Kathmandu.
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| Durbar
Square |
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Patan's
Durbar Square is a concentrated mass of temples that are undoubtedly
the most visually stunning display of Newari architecture
to be found in Nepal. The Bhimsen Temple is dedicated
to Bhim, the god of trade and business, and is appropriately
well endowed with a marble façade, and silver and gilt
struts. Plates, pots and brooms are nailed up under the eaves
to ensure the wellbeing of deceased souls.
Manga
Hiti is one of the water conduits with which Patan and
Bhaktapur are so liberally endowed. It has a lotus-shaped
pool and three intricately carved stone crocodile-head waterspouts.
Next to it is the Mani Mandap, a pavilion built in
1700 and used for royal coronations.
The Vishwanath
Temple is a two-storeyed temple dedicated to Shiva. Built
in 1627, it has two large stone elephants guarding the front
entrance. Shiva's vehicle, the bull Nandi, stands on the other
side of the temple. Inside is a large lingam. Further proof
of Shiva's influence lies in the roof struts that are decorated
with erotic themes.
The third
temple into the square is the Krishna Mandir built
by King Siddhinarsingh Malla to honour Krishna, an incarnation
of Vishnu. Krishna, a favourite among the gopini cow girls,
fought alongside the Pandavs in the Mahabharata war to ensure
that truth would prevail. The temple is clearly of Indian
design, as the strong Mughal influences inherent in it suggest.
The fine friezes depicting scenes from the Mahabharata and
Ramayana make it the best example of stone architecture in
Nepal. Unlike most purely formal Durbar Square temples, the
Krishna Mandir is regularly used.
The Jagannarayan
or Charnarayan Temple is dedicated to yet another incarnation
of Vishnu. Completed in 1566 and largely ignored today, it
is reputed to be the oldest temple on the square. The carvings
on the wooden struts display some particularly imaginative
couplings of men, women and beasts.
Set above
a pillar in imitation of the other Durbar Squares, King
Yoganarendra Malla's Statue kneels in prayer, facing the
triple roofs of the palace's main Taleju temple. This 17th
century king renounced his throne after the death of his favourite
son and wandered off as a sadhu. He told his people that they
would know that he was alive as long as the face of the statue
was bright and untarnished, and the small bird above the hood
of the cobra that protects the figure remained there. They
took his word for it and for over a century after his disappearance,
a bed was laid out every night in the palace for his return.
Another legend adds that when the bird flies off, the elephants
in front of the Vishwanath Temple will stroll over to the
Manga Hiti for a drink!
The Hari
Shankar Temple is dedicated to the half Vishnu, half Shiva
deity. Built by King Yoganarendra Malla in 1704-05, its roof
struts are carved with scenes of the tortures of the damned,
a strange change from the erotic scenes on the Jagannarayan.
The Taleju
Bell directly opposite the Taleju Temple, was erected
by King Vishnu Malla in 1736, so that petitioners could ring
it to alert the king to their grievances. Behind it is a lotus-shaped
pool with a bridge over it.
The Krishna
Temple, also known as the Chyasim Deval, completes the
'front line' of temples in the square. The temple is guarded
by two stone lions at the stairway. It was built in 1723,
and like the Krishna Mandir, stands in sharp contrast to the
Nepali pagoda designs of the other temples. Behind this is
the Bhai Dega Temple, which contains an impressive
lingam.
The Royal
Palace of Patan forms the entire eastern side of the Durbar
Square and is one of the architectural highlights of the Valley.
Although parts of it were built in the 14th century, the main
construction took place during the 17th and 18th centuries
by Siddhinarsingh Malla, Srinivasa Malla and Vishnu Malla.
The Golden
Gate or Sun Dhoka - a magnificent gilded door topped
by a golden torana showing Shiva, Parvati, Ganesh and
Kumar - leads to the newest part of the palace completed in
1734. The rear courtyard was used for dance and drama performances
during the Malla period and one wall is decorated with erotic
figures. Today it houses a cafeteria.
The superbly
renovated Patan Museum is one of the finest museums
on the subcontinent. Its main feature is an outstanding collection
of cast bronze and gilt copper work, mostly of Hindu and Buddhist
deities. There are galleries devoted to Hinduism, Buddhism,
the 'lost wax' method of casting metal relief designs, and
fascinating photographs of Patan at the turn of the century.
The Mul
Chowk and the Taleju Temples stand in the central
courtyard, which is the largest and oldest of the palace's
three main chowks. The goddess Taleju was the personal deity
of the Malla kings from the 14th century, and Tantric rites
were performed to her in this temple. At the center of the
courtyard stands the small gilded Bidya Temple. The
five-storeyed Degutalle Temple, topped by a circular
triple-roofed tower stands on the northeastern corner of the
courtyard.
South
of the Mul Chowk is the smaller Sundari Chowk,
with exquisite samples of woodcarvings, and stone and metal
sculpture. A huge stone platform in this chowk was the seat
of a pious king who endured great penance in search of eternal
bliss. It is said that he slept outdoors on this chilly platform
in the bitterly cold Kathmandu winters and spent hours in
the monsoon rains.
The superbly
carved stonework in the sunken tank of the Sundari Chowk known
as Tusha Hiti depicts the eight Ashtha Matrikas, the
eight Bhairabs and the eight Nagas. The tank was originally
built in about 1670 and restored in 1960. A toy replica of
the Krishna Mandir in the main square sits above it.
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| Golden
Temple |
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The Golden
Temple, also known as the Kwa Bahal, Hiranya Varna Mahabihar
or the Suvarna Mahavihara, is a unique Buddhist monastery
north of Durbar Square. The stone gates were built by silakars
whose descendants are still active in the woodcarving industry.
Also interesting are the four metal monkeys at the corners
of the temple. This is the place to observe metal sculpture
at its very best. The gilt and silver façade of the
temple is embossed with elaborate details: a tiny frieze of
scenes from the Buddha's life, various Buddhas and bodhisattvas,
elephants, lions and snakes slithering off the second-storey
roof.
The amount
of wealth on display here is astonishing. In the past, rich
Newari merchants would donate a portion of their profits for
the temple's upkeep. Wealthy donors continue sponsoring it
even today, which accounts for its exceptionally good condition.
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| Kumbeshwar
Temple |
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Kumbheshowr,
Patan's oldest and tallest temple, is a slender five-storeyed
pagoda whose name means 'Lord of the Water Pot', and one of
the 1,008 epithets of Shiva. The first two storeys were constructed
in 1392 as the winter home of the god (his summer home is Mount
Kailash in Tibet); the upper three roofs were added in the 17th
century. The temple is noted for its fine proportions and elegant
woodcarvings. Among the numerous statues and sculptures is a
particularly fine Ganesh figure.
A small
rectangular shrine on the southern side houses the goddess
Baglamukhi, the dreaded sender of cholera. The spring-fed
water tank here is the scene of a boisterous annual mela
(fair) held on Janai Purnima (usually the August full
moon). Worshippers crowd to lavish flowers, red powder and
grains of rice on an embossed silver linga specially
displayed for the day. Thousands of young boys frolic in the
holy water, which, is said to be connected by underground
channel with the pilgrimage site of Gosainkund, several days'
walk north of Kathmandu. Jhankris (shamans) in colourful
headdresses and skirts beat drums and dance around the temple
to complete the dramatic picture.
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| Uma
Maheshwar Temple |
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The Uma Maheshowr
Temple is one of the several other interesting temples and
bahals in the northern area of Patan. Its façade
is small and inconspicuous, but inside lies a beautiful black-stone
relief of Shiva and Parvati in the pose known as Uma Maheshowr
- the god sitting cross-legged with Parvati leaning against
him.
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| Bishwakarma
Temple |
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The
brick façade of the Bishwakarma Temple is covered in
sheets of embossed copper. Directly above the doorway is a symbol
similar to the Star of David. The temple is dedicated to carpenters
and craftspeople, the clatter of whose tools rings steadily
from the nearby workshops.
Nearby
is the Baha Bahal monastery, which dates from 1427. Part
of it is now used as a school. A little farther south is the
old but recently restored Chakba Lunhiti with three waterspouts.
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| Rato
Macchendranath Temple |
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The red
Rato Machhendranath Temple is dedicated to the god of rain
and plenty. He comes in several incarnations - to Buddhists
he is the Tantric version of Avalokiteshvara while Hindus
view him as another incarnation of Vishnu. The three-storeyed
temple dates from 1673. Each of its three elaborately carved
doorways is guarded by lion figures. At the ground level on
the four corners of the temple plinth are reliefs of a strange
yeti-like creature. Animals as diverse as peacocks,bulls,lions,
elephants and fish - the Tibetan symbols of the months of
the year - top the pillars facing the northern side of the
temple. The metal roof is supported by struts, each depicting
Avalokiteshvara standing above figures being tortured in hell.
Prayer wheels are set into the base of the temple.
The Machhendranath
image is paraded around the town on a temple chariot every
year over a period of several weeks in the month of Baisakh
(April/ May), finally ending at Jawlakhel where the chariot
is disassembled.
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| Minanath
Temple |
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This two-storeyed
temple is dedicated to a Buddhist Bodhisattva who is considered
to be the brother of Rato Machhendranath. His image is also
paraded around town during the Rato Machhendranath festival,
but in a much smaller chariot. The temple originally dates from
the Licchavi period but has undergone several recent restorations.
Its roof struts are carved with figures of multi-armed, brightly
painted goddesses. A large prayer wheel stands in a cage beside
the temple.
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| Mahabouddha
Temple |
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This Temple
of the Thousand Buddhas is modeled after the Mahabouddha Temple
at Bodhgaya in India, where the Buddha gained enlightenment.
It takes its name from the terracotta tiles with which it is
covered, each bearing an image of the Buddha. Believed to have
been built in 1585, it was severely damaged during the 1934
earthquake and had to be totally rebuilt. After that, it looked
very different from the original. However, the leftover tiles
were used to construct a smaller shikhara-style shrine
to Maya Devi, the Buddha's mother.
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| Rudra
varna Mahavira |
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This Buddhist
monastery, also known as Uku Bahal, is one of the better known
monasteries in Patan. Its courtyard is packed with interesting
sculptures such as bells, animals, kneeling devotees, and even
a regal-looking statue of a Rana general. In addition to the
regular Nepali-style lions, there are also a few with a decidedly
British appearance, looking as though they should be guarding
a stern-looking Queen Victoria rather than a colourful Nepali
monastery. The finely carved wooden struts on the right of the
courtyard are said to be among the oldest of their kind in the
Valley. The monastery in its present form is believed to date
back around the 19th century, but certain features and the actual
site itself are much older.
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| Haka
Bahal |
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The Haka Bahal is a typical rectangular building
with an internal courtyard. Traditionally, Patan's Kumari (living
goddess) is a daughter of one of the priests of this monastery.
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| Jawlakhel |
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Jawalakhel is where the main Tibetan refugee
camp is located and is known for the large center for carpet
production. It is a good place to begin if you want to buy a
carpet. Although prices of carpets made outside the camp may
be cheaper, the marked prices on the ones here can give you
a good idea of values. You can also go inside the workshop area
and see how the carpets are made.
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| Zoo |
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The zoo contains a large variety of animal and
bird species. If you miss the one-horned rhino or the Royal
Bengal tiger in the wild, this is a good place to see them.
It is also ideal for entertaining children with boat rides in
the small lake and elephant rides around the park. A restaurant
within the premises serves Chinese and Continental food. The
Zoo is under the management of the King Mahendra Trust for Nature
Conservation.
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| Koteshwar
Mahadev Temple |
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The Koteshowr Mahadev Temple is an important
temple located just north of the confluence of the Manohara
and Hanumante rivers. It is the temple of Shiva with many faces,
a particularly powerful incarnation. The lingam here
is said to date from the 8th century. A little south of the
temple is the Kuti Bahal monastery with a 15th century
chaitya. Travellers bound for Tibet were traditionally
bid goodbye here.
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| Phulchowki |
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At about
2,700 metres above sea level, Phulchowki is the tallest hill
around the Kathmandu Valley. The thick cloud forests here -
one of the last surviving of their kind in Nepal - allow for
interesting bird watching and nature hikes, as more than 250
bird species, as well as barking deer, leopards and bears have
been sighted here. The period between March through April is
a good time to visit, as the rhododendrons are in full bloom
then.
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| Bungamati |
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The route to Bungamati is popular among mountain
bikers as the views are captivating. If you carry on past Jawalakhel,
beyond the Tibetan Refugee Camp across the ring road, you will
arrive at this settlement. The village dates back to the 16th
century and is one of those typical Newari villages. It sits
atop a spur above the Bagmati river. The Rato Machhendranath
Temple is here in Bungamati. The festival of this God is one
of the important events in the Nepalese calendar. He is kept
here six months of the year and the rest are spent in Patan
and in the streets.
The temple square of Machhendranath is lovely
and full of life, which is typical of Newari settlements.
There are chortens and a large prayer wheel adding a Buddhist
presence. You can get there by catching a bus leaving from
Jawalakhel. It is better by bicycle; past the ring road and
then you will have to turn left after crossing the Niche river
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| Godavari
Royal Botanical Garden |
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This is probably the most popular picnic ground
in Kathmandu. The plants are of a wide variety and the flowers,
when in bloom, add vibrancy to the quiet and peaceful environs
of the park. Song and dance sequences for many Nepali films
have been shot here. From the garden, you may wish to visit
the Nau and Panch Dhara Ponds or hike up the 2,700 metre Phulchowki
Hill nearby.
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