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A remarkably flat, low-altitude
strip running along Nepal’s southern border, the Terai contradicts
the national image of mountains, mountains and more mountains.
Although it constitutes less than a fifth of Nepal’s total
area, it has over half the total arable land, produces 60
per cent of the grain and is home to nearly half the population.
It is often just a transit zone for those travelling overland
to and from India, but the Terai has a beauty of its own and
some fascinating possibilities for travellers. The best known
are the magnificent Royal Chitwan National Park and Lumbini,
the birthplace of the Buddha.
The Terai has seen empires come
and go. In 321 BC, the Mauryan Empire under Ashoka controlled
more of the subcontinent than any subsequent ruler until the
British. The next great empire to rise in the region was the
Gupta empire, which flourished between 300 and 600 CE. The
Mughal invasion of the 13th century drove many
Hindus towards Nepal. It is believed that one of these groups
founded the Malla dynasty, which by the 15th century
had extended its power from Kathmandu south to the Ganges
River. The next (and current) rulers were from the Shah dynasty,
which came to power in 1768 and continued extending the borders
of Nepal until it was twice the size it currently is. The
Shahs eventually came into conflict with the British East
India Company, and in 1816, after two years of war, were forced
to sign a treaty that considerably reduced the size of their
kingdom. However, some of it was returned to Nepal as a reward
for its support during the 1857 War of Independence in India.
Until the 1950s, the Terai was
largely undeveloped, protected by a particularly virulent
strain of malaria, and by the Ranas’ desire to isolate Nepal
from outside influences. The only permanent residents were
the Tharus, who possessed a degree of natural immunity to
malaria. Today, nearly half the country’s population dwells
here. The Tharus are still one of the most visible groups,
but there are quite a number of smaller ethnic groups that
include the Danuwar, Darai, Djanghar, Koche, Majhi, Rajbansi,
Satar and Tajpuri.
Apart from Nepali, the most widely
spoken language in the Terai is Maithili, which has its own
script, Tirhuta, and a rich literature. Most of its speakers
are farmers and orthodox Hindus. The next most common language
is Bhojpuri, spoken particularly around Birganj. Abadhi is
used widely in Bhairawa and Nepalganj. All these languages
are Indian-based.
The Terai is home to most of
Nepal’s manufacturing industries, and more than half the gross
domestic product is produced here. Industry is largely concentrated
between Birganj and Hetauda, and around Biratnagar. Among
other things there are jute mills, a sugar refinery, tanneries
and leather factories, biscuit and cigarette factories, and
drug manufacturers. Agriculture, as elsewhere in Nepal, is
the main contributor to the economy. Cash crops such as sugar
cane, jute, tobacco and tea are grown alongside staples like
rice, wheat and maize.
The Terai is best visited in
autumn or winter, when clear days reveal startling vistas
of the Himalayas behind flat fields. January is the best time
to view wildlife. March is unpleasantly steamy, with highs
exceeding 360C, and the monsoon can be a non-stop
torrent.
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